carole a. feuerman
a lot of people (okay, americans) when asked what they think australia is like topographically, will usually envision dry, red clay beds found in the outback which is true of the western plateau. eastern australia is covered by quite a bit of lush vegetation in the hinderlands stretching into temperate rainforests with high humidity along the coast.
the result is perfect pastureland for grazing and the sheep, cows and horses go on for miles and miles! while these animals are obviously being raised for food, there are kind souls out there who purchase from vast herds to save a few of them from slaughter. two of these lucky ones are sweethearts beanie and bella:
the one who really took my heart was florence, a young lamb that was being raised on the broombee organic winery of mudgee! if there is one thing i love, it’s the wine produced in the ideal climes of australia and new zealand and the chance to visit a permaculture winery was a real treat. some of the stand out favorites were the moscato, very smooth and surprisingly dry; the 2005 shiraz, not a medal winner but a precursor to the 2006 and 2009 which did medal in 2011; and the 2005 shiraz/cabernet blend that medaled in 2007.
they also have wonderful olive oils, pickles and preserves as a result of the permaculture system that gives growth to the winery. we purchased a case of multiple wines, 6 bottles of olive oil and a bottle of their to die for pickled asparagus spears which provided the backdrop for the rest of our road trip! the icing on top of all of this was my feeding of florence, the lamb whom i mentioned earlier:
fast forward to our stay on fraser island (you didn’t think i was going to force all of my road trip pics on you?!) at 75 miles in length by 15 miles wide making it the largest sand island in the world, fraser island also stands out as having a world heritage listing.
ecologically there is a lot going on with rainforests, eucalyptus groves, mangrove forests, sand dunes and plenty of fresh water through out. in fact, all of the 144 lakes on the island are rainwater that has filtered through layers of sand and petrified leaf mulch to produce some of the freshest, sweetest water in the world. lake mckenzie below, is a spectacular example of some of the oasis that sprout up in this veritable paradise bearing cool, clear water with a visible bottom out at least 50 feet and beaches of the softest, powdery sand.
optical illusions like the above right hand corner are everywhere. what looks to be ordinary sand is actually the bottom of a fresh water stream, the result of hundreds of years of filtration and who’s sweetness i can personally attest to! as we drove along the largest, legalized sand highway in the world, every few dozen yards or so, creeks like the above lower right could be seen emptying into the ocean.
the 75 mile sand highway is only accessible via low tide and creeks like these can seem quite shallow. in reality, many of them are very deep and have resulted in deadly accidents by unassuming tourists speeding up for the thrill of driving through water. hence the legalization of the highway complete with speeding laws, a highway patrol and the entire island can only be traversed by four wheel drive.
let me be the first to say that i have never been one for flying but after an island flight like this, never again will i pass up on the opportunity! our propeller plane only held 8, sounded like a lawnmower and our pilot was so young he could barely grow whiskers, yet it was the most breathtaking experience allowing for a whole new perspective of fraser island. the lower left is our take off from the beach and the lower right is an aerial of the shipwreck maheno.
built in scotland in 1905, the s.s. maheno was outfitted as a luxury cruise liner along the size of the titanic or the queen mary. she was commandeered during the first world war as a hospital ship and later went back to luxury status. in 1935, the maheno was deemed no longer seaworthy and was sold for scrap. while being towed from melbourne, the craft was caught up in a cyclone and beached. because of the deep sands of the island, it wasn’t cost effective to remove it so it was abandoned to rot and slowly swallowed up by the sand. the rear of the ship is almost completely engulfed and the entire vessel is expected to disappear within the next ten years.
the one thing that most people, even native australians, asked me about were dingo sightings. i did, in fact, capture the image of the dingo above as we were driving along the beach highway. that dingo is maybe one of 150 to 200 left on the island. this particular group of dingoes is most interesting because they are the direct descendents of the original dogs brought over by the japanese over 3,500 years ago. because of their isolated situation, these dogs represent the purest strain and are identical in appearance. unfortunately, the number of dingoes is dropping and hence photos like these are rare. in order to preserve the strain, other dogs are forbidden to the island.
low tide on the island produces enormous sand flats like these. to give an indication of the vastness, i took this photo halfway between the mangroves on the shoreline and the ocean in the distance. the pools of standing water are not residual of the ocean but small creeks running out from the forest. the strange texture on the ground are actually small sand balls left behind by soldier crabs.
a word about our stay at the kingfisher bay resort. being a world heritage listing, fraser island has a cap on resorts and development of any kind. aside from a few lucky homeowners and one tiny beach “village”, the kingfisher is one of only two resorts. part of the beauty of this eco-resort is it’s design to integrate with the natural environment and that alone, puts it heads above it’s rival.
birds have free flight throughout the lobby and the accommodations consist of individual rooms connected by a timber open walkway. each room has asian style sliding panels that open onto private, native timber decks. you can also opt for villas, houses or wilderness lodges that really put you into the thick of things! best of all, is sleeping to the sounds of cicadas and frogs and waking up to the music of birdsong.
much of the food is locally grown and seasoned with “bush” ingredients and there is a bush tucker tour to give you the low down on all the flavors. also note, the native birds are right there alongside you at breakfast ready to snatch your food should you be lax in your look out. these birds are bloody smart and appear exactly at the restaurants opening and disappear at closing time on the nose!
additional cafes and a general store takes care of light snacking, forgotten items or dropping a card into the post. plenty of educational walks, beauty tours and other outdoor activities are available although spending the day in lounge mode with bar service by the pool is encouraged too!
images ©janene dunbar, all pictures shot on canon nex 5n with exception of the dingo and trucks
…a month long creative sojourn through australia!
what an amazing trip it was and how quickly time flew by, yet during that time i saw so much! from sydney to the blue mountains, through the back roads into queensland. up the gold coast to fraser island, down to the sunshine coast into brisbane and back to sydney again. landing in late spring going into summer, festivals were in full swing, trees and flowers were in full bloom (i’m allergic to things i’d never seen before!) and beaches were populated with “schoolies” on a sleepless week-long break. needless to say it’s taken me quite some time to pull my thoughts and photos together and in order to convey the full scope, it’s going to require my breaking it down into multiple posts.
granted, this isn’t my first foray down under but i covered way more ground in this trip than previously. i’ll start with a cultural overview of what i experienced, followed by some consumer insights (yes, i’m always working!). i hope you enjoy!
week one saw me in sydney which is possibly one of the fastest changing cosmopolitan cities in the world. it was already enjoying a major growth the last time i visited but this time i was blown away by how much of a transformation had taken place! a new luxury mall had sprung up with new restaurants and cafes tripling. collaborations have been taking place between artists and shop owners with small once abandoned alleyways brimming over with al fresco dining and festooned with installation art!
this luxe looking sidewalk cafe is actually part of an old historic post office which is a swanky gastronomic conversion into multiple restaurants and bars complete with a basement fine cheese and wine cellar.
these great neon “cherubs” dot the alleyways in sydney’s bustling chinatown.
first thing you’ll notice is the glut of architectural styling to be found in downtown. although some of the sydney-siders i spoke with expressed dismay, i was delighted in seeing modern architecture butting up against beautiful old-world colonialism! you have that feeling of history coupled with the youthful vigor of new design and rather than detract, i think it adds to the allure of the city. it’s very different from the antiquated cities of europe which are beautiful in their own right but take on a mausoleum type quality in their quest to remain untouched. i think if you tried to match the historical design style, you end up with a disney-esque appearance that’s stunted and off-putting.
this modernist masterpiece is the city’s fire house! the old fire house is on the left.
although it doesn’t take much to trounce l.a.’s virtually non-existent transportation system, sydney’s complex system of waterway’s and ferries takes something as simple as a commute and turns it into an outing. if i was a retiree living on a fixed income, much of my time would be taken up by traveling up and down sydney’s harbors using these affordable water taxis to visit a different beach community every day! a pint in every port would be my motto!
one of my favorite ports of call was manly beach!
a quick trip to the suburb surry hills provided proof positive of it’s a-list ranking of 23 of the 50 most stylish neighborhoods in the world. only six years ago, it was mostly bargain mom and pop eateries with nary a boutique in sight. thanks to new liquor license laws aimed at smaller businesses, wine bars, upscale cafes and various shops cluster up and down bourke street tying foot traffic from surry down to oxford street.
surry hills library and community center.
a taste of what’s to come!
with the summer kick off, so was the historic, gentrified ex-slum, the rocks getting in on the action with the village bizarre. the rocks is the oldest settlement in sydney which still contains many of it’s original sandstone structures including the oldest pub and a warehouse. the revitalization of this area has been nothing short of amazing turning it into one of the most viable tourist attractions in town. a new feature for me this time around, was the archeological dig that was taking place beneath the new youth hostel!
street food, crafts and dancing are just a few of the many things to partake of at the village bizarre.
the prize winning angora rabbit took me by surprise especially since i had been led to believe they weren’t allowed in sydney.
visitors gather in this lane crisscrossed with re-purposed lampshades to watch a performance.
apparently the rocks was hard hit by the plague. because it’s an archeological site, the hostel couldn’t be constructed on the grounds. to circumvent this, the hostel was built over the grounds as seen in the lower right.
as you can see from my photo on the right, the stable from the image on the left still remains.
and with that, i think i will leave you here since you must be exhausted and in need of a break! trust me when i say i’ll be working away tomorrow to bring you the next act in which i will take you to the blue mountains into oberon where we’ll meet some sheep named beanie and bella, visit an organic winery in mudgee for the feeding of florence and on through some picturesque scenery. and for those of you who missed the obligatory shot of the opera house, here it is:
all pictures were shot with a canon nex 5n and are ©janene dunbar
so i’ve waited quite a while to visit some of the attractions in my own backyard. i seem to vaguely recall a trip to the cabrillo beach aquarium at about the age of three or four. what i remember most are the fantastic pair of little red pants with a repeated print of white sailboats and seagulls that i was dressed in that day! but i digress…
well, i got a call of the wild on saturday and nothing would do but to answer that call with an early morning inspirational trip to the aquarium of the pacific. if you care about the oceans and global warming i would have to say it’s well worth venturing out (going early to avoid the sticky fingers and smeared glass) and i was blown away by the diversity of our waters. my pics won’t do it justice but i am inspired by the beautiful colors and graceful textures.
all photos ©janene dunbar
…if you are interested (i know i would be), i’m going to share some of the tracks i had in heavy rotation while in vancouver. it got quite ecclectic at times but there are stories behind some and behind others, just good times. there is a commercial in front of café tacuba’s video and it’s non-english but wait it out because it’s so worth it. promise! in order: lykke li, ratatat, café tacuba, jim sullivan, j ralph, glee, the horrors and nouvelle vague.